Fuel costs more here than in most of the country, and in Metro Vancouver it costs more again because of the taxes that fund regional transit. That is not changing, so the useful question is what actually makes a difference.

Match the vehicle to your real driving, not your occasional driving

This is the biggest single lever and most people get it backwards. They buy for the two road trips a year and the trailer they might tow, then burn fuel on that capability every day commuting alone.

If most of your kilometres are city driving, a hybrid is where the savings are, because a petrol engine is at its worst in stop-and-go traffic and a hybrid is at its best there.

If most of your kilometres are highway, a hybrid saves less than people expect. A smaller efficient petrol engine, or a diesel if you tow, often works out better.

Be honest about the split. Not what you would like to do on weekends, what the odometer actually does in a normal month.

Weight, size and drivetrain

Every extra thing the vehicle carries costs fuel forever. All-wheel drive adds weight and drag and typically costs a little economy against the same vehicle in two-wheel drive. Bigger wheels and aggressive tires cost more again.

None of that means avoid AWD. If you drive the Coquihalla in February, buy the AWD. It means buy it because you need it, not because it was on the one you looked at.

Things that genuinely help and cost nothing

Tire pressure. Underinflated tires are the most common cause of quietly worse economy, and checking them monthly is free.

Speed. Fuel use climbs sharply above about 100 km/h, so the difference between 100 and 120 on a long drive is real money and about four minutes an hour.

Roof boxes and bike racks. They wreck aerodynamics. Take them off when you are not using them.

Weight in the back. Clearing out what has been living in the boot for a year is worth a small amount permanently.

Things that help less than the internet suggests

Premium fuel in an engine that does not require it does nothing for economy. Check the manual. If it says regular, use regular.

Fuel additives sold as economy improvers are not where your savings are.

Idling to warm up a modern engine wastes fuel. Modern engines warm faster under gentle driving than sitting still.

The number that actually matters when you are shopping

Fuel economy is quoted in litres per 100 kilometres, and lower is better. Compare that figure for the specific engine and drivetrain rather than for the model in general, because the same vehicle can vary a lot between versions.

Then do the arithmetic that most people skip. A more economical vehicle often costs more to buy, so work out the monthly payment plus the monthly fuel together. Sometimes the efficient vehicle wins clearly. Sometimes the cheaper one with slightly worse economy comes out ahead, especially if you do not drive many kilometres.

Payment and fuel are the same bill arriving in two envelopes. Look at the total.

One thing to check on a used vehicle

Ask when the last service was and whether anything is outstanding. Worn plugs, a clogged filter, dragging brakes and tired oxygen sensors all quietly cost economy, and a vehicle that has been left alone for a while may be using more fuel than it should rather than more than it can.